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#41
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Someday when I need to do my rears (those windows barely ever get used) I will do the same -
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#42
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Hi guys,
I may look at an E70 in the future... Questions: - Does the E70 have the same issues of window clips like the E53? - Any issues with E70 window regulator?
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#43
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- Follow-up on post #36 above on Windows Sliding Clips.
- Just did similar Window Sliding Clips on my 2004 BMW X3 (not the same but similar idea)... - In the photo below that I posed previously, I used a Channel Lock pliers, however, I have found an easier technique: a small C-Clamp. With the C-Clamp, tape a nut on the flat part of the C-Clamp. As you tighten the C-Clamp, use a small screw to help press the metal "ferrule" into the plastic slot. - The reason for all this C-Clamp business is that: the "Regulator Fix" item was mfg'd with the slot smaller than factory, so it takes work to push the ferrule inward. In a way, this is better b/c when in operation, the ferrule does not pull on the tabs above (on the slider) but this is "friction fit", so the ferrule pulls on the sides of the plastic slot. - Hope this helps... - This is the photo that I posted last year using Channel Lock Pliers, but as mentioned above, the C-clamp makes things much easier...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#44
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Doing this next
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1997 E39 540i (Sold) 2005 E53 3.0 125K miles |
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#45
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An little UPDATE...
- In my previous posts, I mentioned using Channel Lock Pliers to squeeze the Cable "Ferrule" inward b/c the RegFix Plastic Clip is tight. - Now I think it is probably easier with a small C-Clamp + Torx #15 bit. - Just firmly squeeze it in and make sure you don't break the plastic clip. - Photo to show the idea of C-Clamp...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#46
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, Dart Light package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
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#47
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- I have a little time, so I get to the bottom of this design and why it fails the way it does...
- If you look at the photos I posted in the original thread, the factory Slider Clip was still intact, although the 2 tabs were a little bent (maybe on the way out...). - The factory setup is that: the slot is loose and when the glass is going upward, the ferrule pulls on the 2 small tabs on the TOP of the Slider Clips, and over time, these tabs break. A better design is to have beefier tabs on the TOP of the Slider Clips! - The ebay RegFix White Clip is somewhat interesting. I understand this is aftermarket stuff, the slot was made very tight (probably unintentional but it works in our favor!), I had to use Channel Lock Pliers to squeeze the ferrule in the slot. So for the ebay RegFix White Clip, the SIDEWAY force from the plastic material holds the ferrule in place and there is little force on the 2 tabs on the top. Anyway, this may turn out to last longer b/c the force is NOT on the 2 tabs. - I took a random photo from the web to show the broken factory clip (Left of photo) and the ebay RegFix White Clip (Right of the photo)... ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#48
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- I forgot to make a note on the Door Panel Removal...
- The BLACK Rectangular Piece (BLUE Arrow) setup is: a. Slides into the Door Panel b. Snap into the Metal Prong (on the door itself) - During removal: once you pry all the clips out, PULL the Door Panel toward you but LIFT the door UPWARD a bit to disengage the BLACK Rectangular Piece. - During installation, my trick is...remove the BLACK Rectangular Piece from the Metal Prong: squeeze the metal prong with a pair of pliers to get the BLACK Rectangular Piece out. Now...spread the metal prong tabs outward a bit so it bites on the BLACK Rectangular Piece later. Use a small screwdriver to spread the metal prongs. - Before you remove the BLACK Rectangular Piece, note the orientation of the BLACK Rectangular Piece (it is NOT symmetrical). - Now install the BLACK Rectangular Piece on the Door Panel first using a bit of glue or tape to hold it in place. - During re-installation, just push the Door Panel into the tops 5 tabs (BLUE Circles), the BLACK Rectangular Piece will snap into the metal prong. ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#49
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- A quick note on modes of failure...
1. If the Cable breaks, or the Plastic Pulley cracks, you need new window regulator. Search forum for brand names: BMW $180; VDO $100; Amazon "Premium" brand $30 etc. 2. I just took some random photos from the internet and put them together... - Photo on the LEFT, when glass going up, the force of the cable ferrule is on the plastic tabs on the "slider" which are broken (RED Circle). The YELLOW Circle shows broken plastic prongs (4 of them)...but when this part fails, no big deal, window still going up and down but with a crackling noise, simply b/c the bolt is still there raising the glass up and down, even with the broken plastic prongs. 3. Photo in the MIDDLE shows broken guide rail (BLUE circle) and broken tabs (RED Circle). 4. Photo on the RIGHT shows normal setup. NOTE that when the glass is going up, the bolt is pushing on the flimsy plastic prongs, and with time, the prongs will break off. Just terrible design. You don't see this problem in the E39 5-series (different issue but no broken prongs). For the next repair, I am thinking about placing a small rubber hose at the bottom (YELLOW Arrow) to help spread the load, minimizing the chance of broken plastic prongs... ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
For fantasy completists, it is worth streaming for the creature design and McGregor’s mustache alone. For everyone else, it remains what it has always been: a magnificent, expensive, and deeply confused fable about what happens when you plant a bean and pray for gold, only to harvest a monster.
In the annals of 2010s fantasy cinema, few films arrived with as much expensive baggage and left with as quiet a thud as Bryan Singer’s Jack the Giant Slayer . Released in March 2013 with a colossal $195 million production budget (excluding marketing), the film was intended to launch a new franchise for Warner Bros. — a darker, CGI-heavy reimagining of the classic English fairy tale “Jack and the Beanstalk.” Instead, it grossed just $65 million domestically and $197 million worldwide, becoming one of the decade’s most notorious box office bombs. jack and the giant slayer movie
The problem isn’t the actors; it’s the geometry of the story. The beanstalk sequences are essentially vertical platforming — climbing, cutting vines, avoiding falling debris — which leaves little room for character development. The romance between Jack and Isabelle is conveyed through exactly two shared glances before the rescue mission begins. The film moves so fast through its set pieces that emotional beats land like afterthoughts. Bryan Singer, fresh off the first two X-Men films and Valkyrie , approached Jack the Giant Slayer with genuine ambition. He shot on practical, rain-soaked sets in England’s Somerset forests, used massive animatronic giant heads for actor eyelines, and insisted on real fire and water effects wherever possible. The beanstalk itself is a marvel of production design — a vertical labyrinth of vines, hollowed trunks, and glowing fungi. For fantasy completists, it is worth streaming for
Visually, the giants are astonishing. Their skin textures, muscle movements, and the eerie way their heads swivel independently during battle remain impressive by today’s standards. Singer stages their emergence from the beanstalk with genuine horror-movie tension: first a massive hand, then a rotting face peering into a cathedral window. The film’s best sequence is a silent, rain-soaked night attack on the castle, where giants pluck screaming knights from parapets like grapes. Released in March 2013 with a colossal $195
But a decade on, box office failure no longer stings. What remains is the film itself: a curious, lumbering artifact of studio-era risk-taking. Was Jack the Giant Slayer a misunderstood gem, or a bloated catastrophe? The answer, as with its giants, is complicated. The film retains the fairy tale’s skeleton: the young farmhand Jack (Nicholas Hoult) unwittingly trades a horse for magic beans, which sprout a gargantuan beanstalk that kidnaps a princess (Eleanor Tomlinson). The king (Ian McShane) dispatches a knight (Ewan McGregor) to rescue her, and Jack tags along. However, Singer and screenwriters Darren Lemke, Christopher McQuarrie, and Dan Studney graft on a Lord of the Rings -style prologue: centuries ago, a human king used a magical crown to banish a race of hungry, violent giants to a floating realm in the sky. The beanstalk is their stairway back.
The result is a tonal split personality. The first act feels like a BBC period romance; the second, a medieval war film; the third, a creature-feature siege. This Frankensteinian structure was part of the film’s original problem — it couldn’t decide if it was for children (fart jokes, a loyal dog named Fosse) or adults (decapitations, a giant chewing a soldier in half). The film’s true stars are its giants, designed by the legendary motion-capture house Giant Studios (Avatar, The Planet of the Apes ). Led by the two-headed General Fallon (a deliciously hammy Bill Nighy voicing the primary head, with John Kassir as the secondary, more sensible head), the giants are not the dim-witted “Fee-fi-fo-fum” oafs of folklore. They are cannibalistic, cunning, and organized — a grimy, pustule-covered horde that communicates in guttural Old English.
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